Dryer Vent Cleaning in St. Augustine South, FL

On the low wall caps common down here, the damper door is usually the first thing to go. Sitting a foot or two off grade on a shaded rear or side wall, with canal and river humidity plus salt in the air, the hinge pin corrodes and the flap either freezes shut or props open and never seals. If the hood body is sound and only the flap is sticking, we can sometimes free it and get it seating again. But once the pin is gone or the housing is chalky and thin, replacing the whole cap is the honest call — a patched flap on a corroded body will be back open in a season. We'll show you the hood before we touch it so you can see which situation you're in.

Three things, over and over. First, original 4-inch foil duct still in service from when these block ranches were built — it sags, the ribs catch lint, and it tears at the seams. Second, crushed transitions: the dryer gets shoved back into a shallow alcove in an enclosed carport or a rear utility room and the flex behind it is folded flat. Third, blocked hoods at grade level, where mulch, shrubbery, and lawn clippings pile up right against a low exit. Add the added-on back-of-house laundry rooms and you occasionally find a long, undersized run threaded behind cabinetry that nobody knew was there.